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	<title>Aaron Panone</title>
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		<title>Perfecting the Grip: Bone Marrow Burgers with 24 Hour Pickles and Herbed Hand-Cut Fries</title>
		<link>http://selectism.com/columns/aaronpanone/2011/09/02/perfecting-the-grip-bone-marrow-burgers-with-24-hour-pickles-and-herbed-hand-cut-fries/</link>
		<comments>http://selectism.com/columns/aaronpanone/2011/09/02/perfecting-the-grip-bone-marrow-burgers-with-24-hour-pickles-and-herbed-hand-cut-fries/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 02 Sep 2011 12:15:17 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>aaronpanone</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Culinary]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[America]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Bone Marrow]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Burgers]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[CSGrills.com]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Freedom Fries]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Fries]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[http://lickmybalsamic.com]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Napoleon Grills]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Pickles]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Pure Fat]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://selectism.com/columns/aaronpanone/?p=89</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[
I think that everyone knows what I mean when I talk about “the grip.” When you get a sandwich (like a burger) into your hand, and you just can’t put it down. There are a few reasons for the grip 1) you know that if you were to put down the sandwich, it would just [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><img class="alignnone" title="Da Grip" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6184/6104986214_fdf2e0fc3d_z.jpg" alt="" width="540" /></p>
<div id="_mcePaste">I think that everyone knows what I mean when I talk about “the grip.” When you get a sandwich (like a burger) into your hand, and you just can’t put it down. There are a few reasons for the grip 1) you know that if you were to put down the sandwich, it would just fall apart and explode everywhere (you will never put the puzzle that is a half-eaten sandwich back together again), 2) you have the angle just right and you are getting all of the layers and flavors and textures, and just can’t put it down, or 3) someone is waiting for you to put the sandwich down, so that they can take it. Additional considerations for the grip are: Dominant fry and/or chip-eating hand, beer/cocktail sipping hand, or if you are a big poacher when you eat with friends, or use a lot of hand gestures &#8211; you want to leave that hand free and use the opposite hand for gripping the sandwich. If you had some kind of war injury or for some reason had your hand amputated obviously the additional considerations would not be relevant &#8211; someone would have to be really sick (or hungry) to steal your sandwich if you only had one hand and had put your burger down to re-load on fries. Additional additional considerations for the grip are: Gripping force &#8211; certain sandwiches are looser or more delicate than others &#8211; you don’t want to crush the sandwich or worse; lose some mayo or possibly a pickle, due to excessive over-gripping. A general rule of thumb for properly gripping a sandwich is to never hold a sandwich over the area of a plate which contains crispy sides that could become soggy with sandwich juices dripped from overhead. That last one is a no-brainer.</div>
<p><div id="_mcePaste">For this particular sandwich, the bone marrow addition gives the meat a juicier and more tender texture. In this instance, I do suggest cutting the sandwich in half (often considered a less-manly way to eat a sandwich, which in this case is not true &#8211; due to the bone marrow content) as a technique for decreasing your feed to savor ratio.</div>
<div></div>
<p>
<div>What you need:</div>
<p><div>24-Hour Pickles:</div>
<div id="_mcePaste">
<ul>
<li>4 Large cucumbers, sliced to ⅛-in</li>
<li>2 Shallots, sliced thin</li>
<li>1 Jalapeno pepper, seeds removed, chopped</li>
<li>1T. Korean chili flakes</li>
<li>2T. Pickling spice (bay leaf, cloves, mustard seed, allspice, etc.)</li>
<li>1c. Apple cider vinegar, unfiltered</li>
<li>1/2c. White vinegar</li>
<li>3/4c. Granulated sugar</li>
<li>Salt</li>
<li>Pepper</li>
</ul>
</div>
<div id="_mcePaste">Burgers:</div>
<div id="_mcePaste">
<ul>
<li>4-5lbs Beef rib end cuts (about 25-30% fat), sliced into cubes and chilled</li>
<li>4oz Beef bone marrow, removed from bone cold</li>
<li>Salt</li>
<li>Pepper</li>
<li>Olive oil (for work surface)</li>
<li>1/4lb Manchego cheese, sliced thin</li>
<li>1 Heirloom tomato, sliced thin</li>
<li>Mayonnaise</li>
<li>Whole grain mustard</li>
<li>Portuguese sweet rolls</li>
<li>Butter</li>
</ul>
</div>
<div id="_mcePaste">Fries:</div>
<div id="_mcePaste">
<ul>
<li>4 Russet potatoes, cleaned, sliced into french fry shapes</li>
<li>Flour</li>
<li>4 Sprigs fresh thyme</li>
<li>48oz Vegetable oil</li>
<li>Salt</li>
</ul>
</div>
<p><div>The Process:</div>
<p><div id="_mcePaste"><em>Tossed the sliced cucumbers and shallots in a light sprinkle of salt in a colander, until too salty to comfortably eat. Let sit for about an hour. Brought the vinegars to a light boil, stirring in the sugar, pickling spice, Korean chili flakes, garlic, and jalapeno pepper. Packed the still salted cucumbers and shallots into a glass jar, and poured the hot mixture over top &#8211; making sure that the liquid level covered all of the cucumbers. Allowed to cool to room temp, then threw the top on the jar and tossed it into the refrigerator for a day.</em></div>
<div><em><br />
</em></div>
<div id="_mcePaste"><em>Tossed the fry-cut potato strips in all-purpose flour until lightly coated, and fried in a deep sauce pan filled about half way with vegetable oil. During the first frying period, the potatoes were cooked until crisp, but not brown, and then placed in a kitchen towel-lined colander to get soggy. Immediately before serving, fried the potatoes for a second time, this time allowing them to get a little brown, then tossed in salt and finely chopped thyme. Both frying operations were completed in small batches, due to lack of a deep fryer.</em></div>
<div><em><br />
</em></div>
<div id="_mcePaste"><em>Ground the beef rib end cuts and bone marrow into a large bowl, using a coarse grinder die. Reground one third of the mixture, to act as a better binder, then mixed that back into the rest of the ground meat. Coated the entire top of the mound of beef in the bowl with a even blanket of salt and then did the same with pepper. Thoroughly mixed the meat together with bare hands until noticeably homogeneous (without breaking the fat down too much), then formed into enormous patties (6 or so) &#8211; indenting the top to avoid making meatballs when they cooked. </em></div>
<div><em><br />
</em></div>
<div><em>Fired up the <a title="Napoleon Grills" href="http://www.csgrills.com/Napoleon-Grills-Grills--C623-1969.htm">Napoleon Grills</a> Prestige II Freestyle Portable Series Infrared Grill from <a title="CSGrills.com" href="http://www.csgrills.com/">CSGrills.com</a>, wiped down the grates with a little olive oil, and grilled the burgers for about three to five minutes a side, until nicely charred but still tender feeling. Placed each burger on a Portuguese sweet roll from Central Bakery (which had been pan fried in butter), topped with a few thin slices of Manchego cheese, some of the 24 hour pickles, mustard and mayonnaise. Plated with a healthy portion of herbed, hand-cut fries, and enjoyed with some beers.</em></div>
<hr />
<p><small>&copy; 2011 <a href="http://selectism.com/columns/aaronpanone">Selectism</a> for Titel Media. Author: aaronpanone |
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Post tags: <a href="http://selectism.com/columns/aaronpanone/tag/america/" rel="tag">America</a>, <a href="http://selectism.com/columns/aaronpanone/tag/bone-marrow/" rel="tag">Bone Marrow</a>, <a href="http://selectism.com/columns/aaronpanone/tag/burgers/" rel="tag">Burgers</a>, <a href="http://selectism.com/columns/aaronpanone/tag/csgrills-com/" rel="tag">CSGrills.com</a>, <a href="http://selectism.com/columns/aaronpanone/tag/freedom-fries/" rel="tag">Freedom Fries</a>, <a href="http://selectism.com/columns/aaronpanone/tag/fries/" rel="tag">Fries</a>, <a href="http://selectism.com/columns/aaronpanone/tag/httplickmybalsamic-com/" rel="tag">http://lickmybalsamic.com</a>, <a href="http://selectism.com/columns/aaronpanone/tag/napoleon-grills/" rel="tag">Napoleon Grills</a>, <a href="http://selectism.com/columns/aaronpanone/tag/pickles/" rel="tag">Pickles</a>, <a href="http://selectism.com/columns/aaronpanone/tag/pure-fat/" rel="tag">Pure Fat</a><br/>
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		<title>Weihenstephan x Samuel Adams: Infinium Ale</title>
		<link>http://selectism.com/columns/aaronpanone/2010/12/17/weihenstephan-x-samuel-adams-infinium-ale/</link>
		<comments>http://selectism.com/columns/aaronpanone/2010/12/17/weihenstephan-x-samuel-adams-infinium-ale/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 17 Dec 2010 18:27:42 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>aaronpanone</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Culinary]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[beer]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Food/Drink]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://selectism.com/columns/aaronpanone/?p=87</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[
I&#8217;m not a beer geek at all, but when one of my favorite breweries (Weihenstephan) teams up with one of my least favorite breweries, I get anxious to see the result. A week ago a friend dropped off a bottle of the limited edition Weihenstephan and Samuel Adams collaboration, the &#8220;Infinium Ale.&#8221; I haven&#8217;t cracked [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><img class="alignnone" title="Infinium Ale" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5169/5269350418_f278ec137f_z.jpg" alt="" height="540" /></p>
<p>I&#8217;m not a beer geek at all, but when one of my favorite breweries (Weihenstephan) teams up with one of my least favorite breweries, I get anxious to see the result. A week ago a friend dropped off a bottle of the limited edition Weihenstephan and Samuel Adams collaboration, the &#8220;Infinium Ale.&#8221; I haven&#8217;t cracked it open yet, and I&#8217;ll update the post when I do, but I just wanted to put it out there that this does exist and that it&#8217;s an interesting collaboration. The packaging was designed here in Boston by <a href="http://www.adamncompany.com/">Adam &amp; Co.</a> and it looks amazing.</p>
<p>Stay tuned for a review (I&#8217;m cringing because I don&#8217;t &#8220;review&#8221; things)&#8230;</p>
<hr />
<p><small>&copy; 2010 <a href="http://selectism.com/columns/aaronpanone">Selectism</a> for Titel Media. Author: aaronpanone |
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		<title>Pre-Thanksgiving Plea To America: Do Something Different!</title>
		<link>http://selectism.com/columns/aaronpanone/2010/11/21/pre-thanksgiving-plea-to-america-do-something-different/</link>
		<comments>http://selectism.com/columns/aaronpanone/2010/11/21/pre-thanksgiving-plea-to-america-do-something-different/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 22 Nov 2010 02:22:15 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>aaronpanone</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Culinary]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Uncategorized]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[dinner]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[duck]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Fall]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[fat]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[http://lickmybalsamic.com]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[sides]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[thanksgiving]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://selectism.com/columns/aaronpanone/?p=76</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[
There are a few things about Thanksgiving that I have never been able to wrap my head around. Other than the obvious lack of direction or, more specifically; the lack of interest in pinpointing the reason why the holiday exists in the first place, the inability for most thanksgiving hosts/guests to step outside of the [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><img class="alignnone" title="Stuffing" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4147/5195631451_d1ed6fd1d9_z.jpg" alt="" width="540" /></p>
<div>There are a few things about Thanksgiving that I have never been able to wrap my head around. Other than the obvious lack of direction or, more specifically; the lack of interest in pinpointing the reason why the holiday exists in the first place, the inability for most thanksgiving hosts/guests to step outside of the box when it comes to food really stunts the holiday’s potential. I will admit that there is something magical about the combination of perfectly-cooked turkey, gooey stuffing, and cool cranberry sauce, all slathered and such in gravy, but, if Thanksgiving dinner were a stock, it would have plateaued around the time that stuffing was invented. Just know that, going into this next weekend, options exist. Walk past the cooler of spiral-cut hams, and say “nay” to disgusting stand-by thanksgiving side dishes. Your guests will get over the lack of nostalgia/vomit inducing classics like string bean casserole with canned fried onions on top, a Jello or marshmallow or Cool Whip-based “salad,&#8221; an unseasoned squash puree-baby-food-mush, or the canned cranberry sauce, when you put something delicious on their plates instead. For potluck-style thanksgiving dinners, put a bounty on the best side dish as an incentive for guests to do something different and not leave you with inedible leftovers and forced empty gestures of graciousness (yes, I am an asshole). Just remember, it’s for the children, and America, and bald eagles, and pilgrims, and freedom&#8230;and freedom. Here are some side dishes that I have come up with for my pre-thanksgiving wrap-up, enjoy:</div>
<div></div>
<p><strong>Pumpernickel and Duck Confit Stuffing with Braeburn Apples and Hazelnuts</strong> (image: top)</p>
<p>What you need:</p>
<ul>
<li>2 Duck legs (about 1.5-lbs)</li>
<li>1/2 Pint, rendered duck fat</li>
<li>8 Slices of pumpernickel bread, cut into cubes</li>
<li>8 Slices of wheat bread, cut into cubes</li>
<li>1 Shallot, finely diced</li>
<li>3 Sprigs of thyme, picked and chopped fine</li>
<li>1 Sprig of rosemary, picked and chopped fine</li>
<li>3 Bay leaves</li>
<li>3 Leaves of sage, chopped fine</li>
<li>1/2t. Savory</li>
<li>1/2t. Lavender</li>
<li>1/8c. Salt, plus some for seasoning</li>
<li>3 Small onions, diced</li>
<li>2 Braeburn apples (or whatever kind), peeled, cored, and diced</li>
<li>2 Ribs of celery, diced</li>
<li>1c. Hazelnuts, chopped</li>
<li>3 Cloves of garlic, chopped fine</li>
<li>1/2c. White wine</li>
<li>2c. Chicken stock</li>
</ul>
<p>The Process:</p>
<p><em>dry cured two duck legs (~1.5lbs total) from sherman market with one finely diced shallot, 1 sprig worth of thyme, a bay leaf, 1/2t. savory, 1/2t. lavender, and 1/8c. salt, overnight in a non-reactive container. rinsed off the legs and seasonings and then patted the legs dry. placed the legs in a vacuum bag with 1/2-pint of rendered duck fat (bella bella birds), a sprig of fresh thyme, the rinsed spices from the dry cure, and one diced small onion. stuck the vacuum bag in a 165-degree thermocirculator (water bath) for 13-hrs. let cool for an hour, then removed the legs from the bag, strained out the spices and aromatics, ladled the fat back into a container in the refrigerator, and set aside the confit jelly. pulled the meat and fat off of the two legs and separated into thin strands (like pulled pork). broke down the skin and fat into similarly sized pieces. placed all of the fat, skin and meat in a container and ladled the still-liquid confit jelly over the top until totally covered. set aside for later in the process.</em></p>
<p><em>put 1T. rendered duck fat and 1T. olive oil to a 10-in saute pan over medium heat. added 2 diced small onions and 2 diced ribs of celery, and cooked until soft. seasoned with salt, pepper, 3 finely chopped fresh leaves of sage, 2 sprigs worth of finely chopped fresh thyme, 1 sprig worth of finely chopped fresh rosemary, 2 finely chopped cloves of garlic, and two bay leaves. reduced 1/2c. of white wine into the mixture along with a big scoop of confit jelly. mixed in 2 peeled, cored, and diced braeburn apples, 1c. of chopped hazelnuts, the pulled duck leg confit, and 2c. chicken stock. stirred around until friendly. mixed the contents of the saute pan into a bowl containing 8-slices of pumpernickel bread and 8-slices of wheat bread, which had been chopped into stuffing sized cubes. tossed well and then poured into a 3Qt. rectangular pyrex baking pan. placed the pan in a 350-degree oven for 30-minutes, then broiled the top until browned.</em></p>
<p><strong>Rich Acorn Squash Layered Souffle-Cheesecake</strong></p>
<p><img class="alignnone" title="Souffle" src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1030/5179157879_22a83dda2e_z.jpg" alt="" width="540" /></p>
<p>What you need:</p>
<p>Crust:</p>
<ul>
<li>1 Egg yolk</li>
<li>1/4 Vanilla bean, seeds</li>
<li>2T. Heavy cream</li>
<li>1t. Salt</li>
<li>4-5T. Butter, unsalted</li>
<li>3/4c. Sugar</li>
<li>1c. All-purpose flour, sifted</li>
</ul>
<p>Filling(s):</p>
<ul>
<li>7 + 2oz Heavy cream</li>
<li>1 Acorn squash, roasted and skin removed</li>
<li>1/4 + 1/8c. Sugar</li>
<li>4 Egg whites</li>
<li>1/2+1/2t. Salt</li>
<li>1/8t. Cream of tartar</li>
<li>1/2 Vanilla Bean, seeds</li>
<li>1/4c. All-purpose flour</li>
<li>4oz Creme fraiche</li>
<li>7oz Ricotta cheese</li>
</ul>
<p>The Process:</p>
<p><em>came up with this one over the summer. it&#8217;s a cream and cheese based batter, gently folded into stiff-peaked egg whites&#8230;so a combination of a cheesecake and a souffle. avoided using cream cheese also, because really, who knows what that is? the version of this from over the summer had fresh blueberries instead of the squash filling. fall provisions called for a more seasonal iteration, and it turned out really great. </em></p>
<p><em><br />
cut the yolk from one egg, the seed from 1/4 of a vanilla bean, 2T. heavy cream, 1t. salt, 8T. butter (probably would have been fine with 4T., 8T. was overkill) and 3/4c. granulated sugar into 1c. of all-purpose flour, until the fat/liquid were broken up pretty small (a food processor would have worked also, pulsed a few times). lightly mixed the ingredients, then poured into a 9-in springform pan and packed by hand into the bottom. threw the springform with the dough into a 350-degree oven until lightly browned on top, about 15-minutes.</em></p>
<p><em>roasted an acorn squash by cutting it in half, removing the seeds, and placing it cut side down on a parchment lined baking sheet. pulled and let cool when a cake tester could easily pass through the flesh of the squash. scooped the insides of the squash into a mixing bowl. added 1/8c. granulated sugar, 1T. heavy cream, 1 egg, and 1/2t. salt to the squash and mixed until smooth. poured this filling into the still-hot springform pan, lined with the already cooked crust, and returned to the oven for about 7-minutes, until the thin layer of squash had set. pulled the springform, let cool and then placed into the freezer until ready to put in the oven again.</em></p>
<p><em> </em></p>
<p><em>mixed together 7-oz of heavy cream, the seed from 1/2 of a stick of vanilla, 1/4c. sugar, a pinch of salt, 7-oz whole milk ricotta cheese, 4-oz creme fraiche, and 1/4c. all-purpose flour. whipped the whites from four eggs with 1/8t. of cream of tartar until stiff peaks. lightly folded the whites into the cheese batter mixture, making sure to not destroy the bubbles. gently transferred the souffle mixture to the chilled springform pan and immediately placed into the 350-degree oven. baked for about 45-minutes, moving from the top rack down to a rack closer to the bottom based on the browning of the souffle top. the cake is done when there is no longer a jiggle of liquid under the souffle crust. it should have about one and a half times the height and be cooked throughout.</em></p>
<p><strong>Linguica and Bitter Green Quiche with a Stuffed Double-Bacon-Fat-Tortilla Crust</strong></p>
<p><img class="alignnone" title="Quiche" src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1246/5155062515_90d37567e5_z.jpg" alt="" width="540" /></p>
<p>What you need:</p>
<ul>
<li>4-5T. Bacon fat</li>
<li>Pepper</li>
<li>Salt</li>
<li>1c. All-purpose flour</li>
<li>Water</li>
<li>1/8+1/8lb Sharp cheddar cheese, shredded</li>
<li>1/2lb Linguica sausage, diced</li>
<li>Olive oil</li>
<li>5 Large leaves of collard greens, deribbed, sliced into ribbons</li>
<li>2 Small onions, sliced thin</li>
<li>1/2c. White wine</li>
<li>8 Eggs</li>
<li>1T. Fresh thyme, chopped fine</li>
<li>Butter</li>
</ul>
<p>The Process:</p>
<p><em>this here quiche has a stuffed crust. made some tortilla dough by cutting 4-5T. of bacon fat (no lard around and didn&#8217;t want to use shortening), and some pepper and salt into 1c. of all-purpose flour, then cut in water until workable. refrigerated the dough for 30-minutes or so, and then gently rolled the dough into two large pieces (being careful to not incorporate too much of the fat &#8211; to keep it flaky), each big enough to cover a 8-in round cake pan. buttered the cake pan, placed a round of parchment paper in the bottom, then buttered the parchment. placed one of the tortilla shapes into the paper-lined pan, then sprinkled 1/8-lb of sharp cheddar onto the bottom tortilla, and covered with the second tortilla dough. trimmed the dough to the size of the pan.</em></p>
<p><em>sauteed 1/2-lb of diced linguica in some olive oil until browned, then added five large leaves of collard greens (de-ribbed), and two small onions sliced into thin strips. seasoned with some salt and pepper and added 1/2c. white wine. cooked until the wine had reduced around the meat and greens, and the greens appeared to be wilting.</em></p>
<p><em> </em></p>
<p><em>beat eight eggs using a stand mixer, until foamy. used a spatula to gently mix into the eggs salt, pepper, 1T. fresh chopped thyme, the sauteed meat and greens, and 1/8-lb of shredded white cheddar cheese. poured the filling over the tortilla dough in the cake pan, and then used the spatula to make sure that everything was evenly distributed. put it into a 350-degree oven for about 35-min or until a cake tester came out clean (not sure how long it took). allowed to cool for a few minutes and served.</em></p>
<hr />
<p><small>&copy; 2010 <a href="http://selectism.com/columns/aaronpanone">Selectism</a> for Titel Media. Author: aaronpanone |
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		<title>You&#8217;re Going To Have To Take My Word On This: My Unphotogenic Foodblog Shortcomings &#8211; Condensed</title>
		<link>http://selectism.com/columns/aaronpanone/2010/10/19/youre-going-to-have-to-take-my-word-on-this-my-unphotogenic-foodblog-shortcomings-condensed/</link>
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		<pubDate>Tue, 19 Oct 2010 22:12:16 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>aaronpanone</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Culinary]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Archives]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Bacon]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[chuck]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[dinner]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Fall]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Food/Drink]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[pot roast]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[you're going to have to take my word on this]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[
I’m  going to go ahead and say it &#8211; Indian food looks like diarrhea. Why are  some of the most disgusting looking prepared foods the most delicious?  Is that vomit or the best biscuits and gravy on the planet? It’s hard to  make some foods look sexy on the internet, sometimes [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><img class="alignnone" title="Pot Roast" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4131/5097081563_3a4b39cd8f_z.jpg" alt="" width="540" /></p>
<p>I’m  going to go ahead and say it &#8211; Indian food looks like diarrhea. Why are  some of the most disgusting looking prepared foods the most delicious?  Is that vomit or the best biscuits and gravy on the planet? It’s hard to  make some foods look sexy on the internet, sometimes you are just not  going to win. That being said, I present to you the “you’re going to  have to take my word on this,” internet food photo round-up, compiled  from photos on my blog <a href="http://lickmybalsamic.com">Lick My Balsamic</a>. This post was inspired by  dinner last night, which was quite possibly the best pot roast that I  have ever made/put in my mouth. It was so frustratingly unphotogenic,  while at the same time so damn tasty, that I decided to put together an  entire post to justify its existence on my internets. Enjoy&#8230;</p>
<p><strong>Cider and Plum Braised Chuck Roast With Smashed Red Potatoes and Roasted Squash</strong> (photo: top)</p>
<p>What you need:</p>
<ul>
<li>2.5-lb Chuck roast, seasoned (s+p) and tied</li>
<li>4 Slices of bacon, cut into lardons</li>
<li>1 Large onion, diced</li>
<li>2 Plums, pitted and diced</li>
<li>1.5T. Thyme, fresh, chopped</li>
<li>1.5T. Oregano, fresh, chopped</li>
<li>4 Cloves of garlic, smashed</li>
<li>3 Allspice berries, whole</li>
<li>1/2t. Korean chili flakes</li>
<li>1/2t. Ajowan (optional, may be hard to find &#8211; may substitute cumin or anything)</li>
<li>1c. White wine</li>
<li>1c. Chicken stock</li>
<li>1c. Apple cider</li>
<li>2T. Tomato paste</li>
</ul>
<p>The Process:<br />
<em>seasoned,  tied-up and seared-off a 2.5-lb well-marbled chuck roast in a hot dutch  oven containing 2T. of olive oil. browned both sides and removed the  roast from the dutch oven. rendered the fat out of four slices of bacon,  chopped into little lardons, in the hot oil, then added one large diced  onion and let cook on medium heat until almost translucent. added to  the onions two medium size diced plums, 4 smashed cloves of garlic,  1.5T. fresh chopped thyme, 1.5T. fresh chopped oregano, 3 allspice  berries, 1/2t. korean chili flakes, 2 cloves, and 1/2t. of whole ajowan.  allowed to simmer until heavily aromatic, then added 1c. of white wine,  scraped all of the suk from the bottom of the dutch oven and let reduce  until syrupy. returned the roast to the pot and poured in 1c. of apple  cider, 1c. of chicken stock, and then jostled everything around and  mixed in 2T. of tomato paste. covered the top of the dutch oven tightly  with tin foil (thanks, cooks illustrated!) and then the metal lid, and  placed the vessel in a 325-degree oven for 2.5-hrs, flipping the roast  half way through the cooking time.</em></p>
<p><em>removed  a few cups of the braising liquid about 30-minutes before the roast was  done. skimmed the fat off the top, pulsed in the food processor, and  then reduced with a little more stock and some fresh sprigs of thyme and  oregano and some salt and pepper to taste. pulled the roast, sliced it  up and served it over some boiled-smashed-roasted red potatoes and some  roasted squash, topped with some of the gritty gravy mixture.</em></p>
<p><em><br />
</em></p>
<p>Now, on to the round up. Bear with me, some of these images are pretty old and not so fabulous, but they were delicious&#8230;</p>
<p><strong>kitchen sink benedict: artichoke heart gravy over a fried egg and pan-fried buttermilk ciabatta</strong><br />
<em><a href="http://www.lickmybalsamic.com/2010/09/kitchen-sink-benedict-artichoke-heart.html"><img class="alignnone" title="Artichoke Gravy" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4148/5033952400_b48f019d37_z.jpg" alt="" width="540" /></a><br />
</em></p>
<p><strong>file gumbo-style tilapia stew with linguica and potato</strong><br />
<em><a href="http://www.lickmybalsamic.com/2010/07/file-gumbo-style-tilapia-stew-with.html"><img class="alignnone" title="Tilapia Stew" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4122/4798967333_d4fed181b7_z.jpg" alt="" width="540" /></a><br />
</em></p>
<p><strong>cheddar-rosemary biscuits with sake-sausage gravy and a pickled pepper puree</strong><br />
<em><a href="http://www.lickmybalsamic.com/2010/03/cheddar-rosemary-biscuits-with-sake.html"><img class="alignnone" title="Another Image" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2768/4421037874_6da115ec70_z.jpg?zz=1" alt="" width="540" /></a><br />
</em></p>
<p><strong>herb roasted turkey salad with fresh grapes and blueberries</strong><br />
<em><a href="http://www.lickmybalsamic.com/2009/09/herb-roasted-turkey-salad-with-fresh.html"><img class="alignnone" title="Another Image" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2613/3953028319_6cd7a03379_z.jpg?zz=1" alt="" width="540" /></a><br />
</em></p>
<p><strong>eleventh hour tangy smoked and pulled pork with creamy buttermilk coleslaw</strong><br />
<a href="http://www.lickmybalsamic.com/2009/06/eleventh-hour-tangy-smoked-and-pulled.html"><em><img class="alignnone" title="Another Image" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3381/3593423790_d291a855b5_z.jpg?zz=1" alt="" width="540" /></em></a></p>
<p><strong>black bean chiles rellenos over a spicy sage romesco sauce with sweet corn pitas</strong><br />
<em><a href="http://www.lickmybalsamic.com/2009/01/black-bean-chiles-rellenos-over-spicy.html"><img class="alignnone" title="Another Image" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3501/3233477027_c8c6401e93_z.jpg" alt="" width="540" /></a><br />
</em></p>
<hr />
<p><small>&copy; 2010 <a href="http://selectism.com/columns/aaronpanone">Selectism</a> for Titel Media. Author: aaronpanone |
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		<title>The New Salt: Olive Oil Poached Garlic</title>
		<link>http://selectism.com/columns/aaronpanone/2010/10/13/the-new-salt-olive-oil-poached-garlic/</link>
		<comments>http://selectism.com/columns/aaronpanone/2010/10/13/the-new-salt-olive-oil-poached-garlic/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 13 Oct 2010 16:51:30 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>aaronpanone</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Culinary]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[garlic]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[http://lickmybalsamic.com]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[ingredients]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://selectism.com/columns/aaronpanone/?p=55</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[
I  think that I have been eating garlic since the day that I was born. The  story goes that when I was an infant my parents would just take  whatever they were eating for dinner and put it in a food processor with  a few cloves of garlic and feed that [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><img class="alignnone" title="OO Poached Garlic" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4039/5078136493_cfbf0d8ee8_z.jpg" alt="" width="540" /></p>
<p>I  think that I have been eating garlic since the day that I was born. The  story goes that when I was an infant my parents would just take  whatever they were eating for dinner and put it in a food processor with  a few cloves of garlic and feed that to me. That being said, I am  always looking for more reasons and ways to eat garlic. When a friend of  mine pulled out a tub of thick olive oil containing delicately poached  cloves of garlic, it might as well have been gold. The sharp bite of the  garlic had been removed in the poaching process, and replaced by a  smooth sweetness that made the poached cloves mild enough to be enjoyed  on toast, but still potent enough to be used while cooking.</p>
<p>Also,  like the ever-popular Cocoa Puffs cereal &#8211; that makes its own chocolate  milk &#8211; the oil that is infused with garlic flavor during the poaching  process is great for dipping, cooking, or garnishing your favorite dish.  Since the olive oil does not near the smoking point, and should not  boil during the poaching process, the cloves of garlic can be stored in  the same oil in the refrigerator without the threat of rancidity [edit: poaching garlic in olive oil is the perfect breeding ground for botulism, however; so make sure to eat the poached garlic within a few days (2-3) to avoid any risk].  Spooning a few poached cloves of garlic and some of the oil onto a  cutting board, a garlic paste can be made quickly using the flat side of  a chef’s knife. Mix this paste into almost any dish for delicious  results!</p>
<p>What You Need:</p>
<ul>
<li>1 Pint of garlic, peeled</li>
<li>2-3c. Olive oil (nothing fancy, just a good quality cooking oil)</li>
</ul>
<p>The Process:</p>
<p><em>peeled enough garlic to fill a pint container with raw cloves. placed  the pint of cloves into a small sauce pan. poured olive oil over the  cloves in the pan until fully-submerged. put the pan over a low flame  and allowed to get up to a delicate simmer. continued at this  temperature (probably about 200-degrees) until the cloves were tender  enough that they could be easily pierced through by a cake tester or  fork. removed the cloves in oil from heat, and allowed to cool (a little  bit of browning is ok, ideally the browning would occur during  carry-over cooking, after removed from heat&#8230;that gives the best  result). transferred the cooled garlic to a pint container with a spoon,  and poured the oil that the cloves were cooked in over the top until  the container was full (discarding any brown bits in the bottom of the  sauce pan). placed the covered container in the refrigerator until  needed (edit: use within 2-3 days).</p>
<p>this can also be done in the  oven, for a more gentle poach. oven temperature can range from 200 to  325-degrees, cooking times vary.</p>
<p>olive oil poached garlic is one  of the most versatile ingredients to have in the fridge. the taste is  slightly more mellow and the cloves can be consumed raw or in cooked  food. there is also a nice sweet undertone and the oil is great for  garnishing or dipping. a pint container of these usually disappear  quickly.</em></p>
<p><em>[edit:  it was brought to my attention that this is the ideal breeding ground  for botulism, so i edited the content to say that you should eat them  within a few days to be safe. i have done this technique a dozen times  or so, with great results (ie: no botulism), but it's not worth the  risk, so eat them fast.]</em></p>
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<p><small>&copy; 2010 <a href="http://selectism.com/columns/aaronpanone">Selectism</a> for Titel Media. Author: aaronpanone |
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		<title>Reduced: Selected Texts on Food and Cooking</title>
		<link>http://selectism.com/columns/aaronpanone/2010/09/30/reduced-selected-texts-on-food-and-cooking/</link>
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		<pubDate>Thu, 30 Sep 2010 17:10:09 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>aaronpanone</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Culinary]]></category>
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		<description><![CDATA[
I  do not own many cookbooks. I&#8217;m very stubborn and tend to be partial to  the school of thought that if you have an idea about how something  should be done, then that is as good as knowing, so just do it (see item  #4 in “The Cult of the Done [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><img class="alignnone" title="Bookshelf" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4127/5038971783_172e9f9b0a_o.jpg" alt="" width="540" height="360" /></p>
<p>I  do not own many cookbooks. I&#8217;m very stubborn and tend to be partial to  the school of thought that if you have an idea about how something  should be done, then that is as good as knowing, so just do it (see item  #4 in “The Cult of the Done Manifesto”). Unfortunately, this is not the  best path for efficiently taking in information that could be valuable,  and getting into good habits in the kitchen (and winning arguments at  fancy dinner parties). While the “I don’t need a cookbook” mentality is  supported well by publications like Rachael Ray cookbooks – I don&#8217;t need  you to tell me how to boil pasta, devil woman – there are some texts  out there that are dense collections of information on food, cooking and  techniques, that can be invaluable resources to cooks both in home and  commercial kitchens. These tend to be the books that I gravitate toward &#8211;  books that you read one page of and your head hurts from information  overload. My collection of cookbooks is pretty lean, and half of them  are books that I picked up at yard sales and are useless, or contain one  recipe or chart that I like, so they stay on the shelf. And, it&#8217;s hard  to throw away a book, especially if you don&#8217;t feel like you have given  the book a fair chance. Anyway, this topic comes up because in the  process of helping a dear friend of mine put together his own cookbook, I  was forced to review my own collection and from these books, determine  what makes a good one. I put together a short list for y’all of my  favorite “cookbooks” (the majority of the selected books are actually  texts on cooking and/or food).</p>
<p><strong>The Joy of Cooking &#8211; Rombauer and Becker</strong><br />
<em>The</em> cookbook. If you want to know process or how to do something right,  this is where you look. No frills. About a million recipes and  techniques that will improve the way that you cook.</p>
<p><strong>On Food and Cooking &#8211; McGee</strong><br />
Just  about everything that there is to know about food preparation, history,  origins, and science. I’ve been trying to make my way through this one  for some time now.</p>
<p><strong>Larousse Gastronomique &#8211; Montagne</strong><br />
An enormous encyclopedia of foods and ingredients. Much of this book is old school  french techniques and styles for a wide variety of prepared foods.  Usually mentions a food/dish, and some main ingredients, and sometimes a  technique. It’s really fun to read through this and skip around between  the referenced items (it’s like the Wikipedia “random” button for crazy  foods). I have a really old version, so the pictures are kind of  nauseating (like pictures of a volcano of jello upside down cake filled  with a whitefish dip &#8211; not really, but that kind of stuff). But, a great  reference, regardless.</p>
<p><strong>The Food Lover’s Companion &#8211; Herbst</strong><br />
A more modern mini-encyclopedia of foods. Great for quick reference and simple explanations.<br />
<strong><br />
Charcuterie &#8211; Ruhlman</strong><br />
A  very accessible narrative cookbook with some good back story on  portions of the process and history of the techniques. As a process nut,  I don’t really follow the recipes 100% in this one, but it’s great for  reference and techniques. If you were to go through this book and follow  a majority of the preparation techniques/recipes, it would set you up  very well for a more advanced go at charcuterie under your own tutelage.  Overall, an amazing book, which has brought some of these extinct  techniques back into the modern kitchen. Also includes some great  recipes for natural pickles, and useful everyday brining techniques.</p>
<p><strong>The Flavor Bible &#8211; Page and Dorenburg</strong><br />
A  really interesting concept for a book. Basically a rundown of flavor  combinations. If you are in a MacGuyver-type jam and all you have is a  lemon, a russet potato, and a link of linguica, this book could help you  put something delicious together.<br />
<strong><br />
The Bread Baker’s Apprentice &#8211; Reinhart</strong><br />
Often  referred to as <em>the</em> reference for home cooks looking to learn how to  make bread. A really awesome book. If you are trying to make a quick  bread for dinner and you just got home from work, this is not your book.  Most of the recipes take more than one day to complete.</p>
<p><strong>Great Sausage Recipes and Meat Curing &#8211; Kutas</strong><br />
An  older, more-hardcore book on charcuterie. I’ve only dusted this one off  a few times. Good for cross-referencing long curing techniques. If you  were a hunter out in the sticks and had this book, you would be pretty  much all set for survival.<br />
<strong><br />
A Practical Guide to Sous Vide Cooking &#8211; Baldwin</strong><br />
A  short PDF (that you can <a href="http://amath.colorado.edu/~baldwind/sous-vide.html">download</a> for free) reference on what you need  to know to prepare foods sous vide. Includes some boiled down technical  information, and also extremely in-depth mathematical reasoning and more  advanced descriptions of the reactions that occur when food is cooked.</p>
<p><strong>Cooking for Geeks &#8211; Potter</strong><br />
A  technical look at cooking and food preparation and the science behind  it all. I haven’t gotten my hands on a copy of <a href="http://www.cookingforgeeks.com/">this</a> yet, but it’s on my  “to buy” list.<br />
<strong><br />
Cooks Illustrated &#8211; (Quarterly Magazine)</strong><br />
A  great reference for nearly fool-proof technique. I mean, it’s published  by America’s Test Kitchen, so they&#8230;test&#8230;everything. Also, honest  product reviews can be found in this magazine (as far as I know).</p>
<p><strong>Gourmet Magazine &#8211; (discontinued)</strong><br />
Overall, a pretty great magazine. Good pictures and recipes. You can find back issues on the internet. [Edit: Gourmet is still alive as "Gourmet Live" an iPad application - Thanks, Beau.]</p>
<p><img class="alignnone" title="Akimenko Meats - The First Cookbook" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4085/5039592408_92ef7276f9_o.jpg" alt="" width="540" height="360" /></p>
<p>And  last&#8230;the plug. <a href="http://selectism.com/columns/aaronpanone/2010/06/09/bio-of-a-butcher-vadim-akimenko-of-the-future-akimenko-meats/">Vadim Akimenko</a>, Peter Reynolds, and myself just put  together a mini-cookbook that is part of a quarterly information series  that is going to be distributed by Vadim’s developing butcher shop,  <a href="http://akimenkomeats.com">Akimenko Meats</a> (Coming to Cambridge Massachusetts Winter 2010). Expertly  printed by the magicians over at the <a href="http://www.magcloud.com/">MagCloud</a> on-demand printing  service, the ten-recipe cookbook is available online now. The following  is a recipe for “Perfect Rare Roast Beef,” from <a href="http://www.magcloud.com/browse/Issue/112895">Akimenko Meats Presents &#8211; The First Cookbook</a>.</p>
<p><img class="alignnone" title="Perfectly Rare Roast Beef" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4124/5038971665_d4fb86e698_o.jpg" alt="" width="540" height="359" /><br />
<em><br />
This  roast beef recipe will work for most cuts of beef, it&#8217;s really a method  rather than a recipe. I like using top round because it is fairly  inexpensive and under utilized. When you are looking for a roast, look  for cuts that will do well with dry heat methods of cooking, think rib,  strip, sirloin, top round, eye round or knuckle to name a few.</em></p>
<p><em>What you need:<br />
</em></p>
<ul>
<li><em>5# Top Round roast, (first cut is best)</em></li>
<li><em>6 cloves of garlic, ground into a paste</em></li>
<li><em>2 shallots, ground into a paste with the garlic</em></li>
<li><em>Salt and pepper to taste</em></li>
<li><em>2 cups of mire poix, (2:1:1 onion, carrots, celery), optional</em></li>
<li><em>Roasting Pan</em></li>
</ul>
<p><em>The Process:</em></p>
<p><em>Pre-heat oven to 425&#8242;F. Set the roast aside and allow it to come to room temperature.</em></p>
<p><em>Rub  the roast with the garlic/shallot paste, then sprinkle generously with  pepper first then salt. If you like you may sit the roast on a bed of  mire poix. This adds flavor to the roast, but more importantly makes a  good base for a sauce or gravy from the drippings.</em></p>
<p><em>Throw  the roast in the oven at 425&#8242;F for 15 minutes then turn the heat down  to 325&#8242;F, and cook for 9 minutes per pound for rare. Remember that  cooking times for these types of recipes are just guide lines. Always  check the internal temperature with a food safe thermometer making sure  the tip of the probe is close to the center of the roast. When the  internal temperature reaches 100&#8242;F for rare or 115&#8242;F for med-rare,  remove the roast and let it sit for about 15 to 20 minutes. And don’t  cheat on the resting time. During this 15 to 20 minutes the jus is  redistributing throughout your roast. Cut prematurely and lose the jus  to the carving block.</em></p>
<p><em>So, you’ve been very patient, carve that roast and eat!</em></p>
<hr />
<p><small>&copy; 2010 <a href="http://selectism.com/columns/aaronpanone">Selectism</a> for Titel Media. Author: aaronpanone |
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		<title>Spicy Summertime Gazpacho with Fresh Cherries</title>
		<link>http://selectism.com/columns/aaronpanone/2010/07/13/spicy-summertime-gazpacho-with-fresh-cherries/</link>
		<comments>http://selectism.com/columns/aaronpanone/2010/07/13/spicy-summertime-gazpacho-with-fresh-cherries/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 13 Jul 2010 17:00:21 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>aaronpanone</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Culinary]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[http://lickmybalsamic.com]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Raw]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[summer]]></category>
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		<description><![CDATA[
Just because a food item is in season, it doesn&#8217;t mean that you are going to get one that tastes good. Inspired by a food talk at Boston&#8217;s ICA by culinary geniuses Ken Oringer and Jamie Bissonnette, I set out to make a refreshing chilled gazpacho soup. Bissonnette and Oringer stressed the importance of high [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><img class="alignnone" title="gazpacho1" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4135/4790046495_f8050cb832_z.jpg" alt="" width="540" /></p>
<p>Just because a food item is in season, it doesn&#8217;t mean that you are going to get one that tastes good. Inspired by a <a href="http://www.icaboston.org/programs/talk-and-tours/subpage?keyword_id=8998014">food talk</a> at Boston&#8217;s ICA by culinary geniuses Ken Oringer and Jamie Bissonnette, I set out to make a refreshing chilled gazpacho soup. Bissonnette and Oringer stressed the importance of high quality ingredients, and as I strolled through the aisles of the produce section at my local market I found myself unable to find suitable tomatoes. I grabbed a few four-packs of tomatoes on the vine, and was beginning to think of other dishes that I could make, until I noticed a tray of fresh cherries on one of the end caps. Hard and light colored tomatoes tend to be more acidic and missing the &#8220;middle&#8221; of their flavor profile. The freshness of the cherries would bring back this middle ground and the natural sweetness of the end result, a tasty gazpacho. In fact, until I pointed out to my dinner guests that there were cherries in the gazpacho, they were unaware of the flavor&#8230;I would like to assume that this is because the flavors were paired well together, but who knows?!</p>
<p>What you need:</p>
<ul>
<li>8 Medium sized tomatoes, quartered</li>
<li>3T. Salt</li>
<li>2 Stalks celery with greens, chopped roughly</li>
<li>15 Fresh cherries, pitted and stemmed</li>
<li>1/4 Vidalia onion, chopped roughly</li>
<li>1 Clove garlic</li>
<li>1 Jalepeno pepper, halved and seeded</li>
<li>1t. Caraway seed, crushed</li>
<li>1t. Celery seed</li>
<li>1 Large handful of fresh cilantro with stems</li>
<li>Fresh cracked pepper</li>
<li>Cayenne powder</li>
<li>1c. Extra virgin olive oil</li>
<li>1 Lemon, juiced</li>
<li>1 Lime, juiced</li>
<li>Sea salt</li>
<li>Green onion, finely sliced (garnish, optional)</li>
</ul>
<p>The process:</p>
<p><em>quartered eight medium sized tomatoes and placed them in a plastic prep  tub. sprinkled 3T. of salt over the tomatoes, and mixed them around to  get an even coating. roughly chopped two stalks of celery, with the  greens, and threw them into the tub with fifteen or so pitted and  stemmed fresh cherries, a quarter of a sweet vidalia onion, 1 clove of  garlic, the nose half of a jalapeño pepper (without seeds), 1t. of  crushed caraway seed, a pinch of celery seed, a large handful of fresh  cilantro with the stems, fresh cracked pepper, a pinch of cayenne, and  1/2c. of extra virgin olive oil. allowed the tomatoes, vegetables, and  seasoning to sit on the salt for an hour or so at room temperature,  until a fair amount of liquid had leeched out of the tomatoes. blended  everything in the bin together with another 1/2c. of extra virgin olive  oil, the juice from one lemon and one lime, and salt, pepper, and  additional jalapeño pepper (or just hot sauce) to the taste.</p>
<p>stuck  the mixture in the refrigerator for a few minutes and then served in a  chilled bowl, garnished with sea salt and thin sliced green onions.</em></p>
<hr />
<p><small>&copy; 2010 <a href="http://selectism.com/columns/aaronpanone">Selectism</a> for Titel Media. Author: aaronpanone |
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		<title>Rustic Goat Cheese, Chive, and Pancetta Tortellini Over Wilted Spinach with Brown Butter</title>
		<link>http://selectism.com/columns/aaronpanone/2010/06/17/rustic-goat-cheese-chive-and-pancetta-tortellini-over-wilted-spinach-with-brown-butter/</link>
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		<pubDate>Fri, 18 Jun 2010 02:35:17 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>aaronpanone</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Culinary]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[dinner]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[pasta]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[
Nothing from a box can compare to the taste and mouthfeel of fresh homemade pasta. Growing up, my father would make fresh pasta occasionally. As a child, I loved the process of making the fresh dough and the excitement associated with the event, but I didn&#8217;t really appreciate it fully until I had a pasta [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><img class="alignnone" title="tortellini" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4024/4666777526_f70e1bce01_b.jpg" alt="" width="540" /></p>
<p>Nothing from a box can compare to the taste and mouthfeel of fresh homemade pasta. Growing up, my father would make fresh pasta occasionally. As a child, I loved the process of making the fresh dough and the excitement associated with the event, but I didn&#8217;t really appreciate it fully until I had a pasta maker of my own. When I was twenty years old I went to Italy with my family and grabbed a classic Italian-made hand-crank pasta maker to give to my roommate as a present. I used the pasta maker all of the time until my roommate moved down to New Orleans and took it with him. A few months passed and then I got a new one, but it just wasn&#8217;t the same. Two years later I went down to New Orleans to visit a good friend of mine (the ex-girlfriend of my old roommate) and stumbled upon the original pasta maker in a pile of his stuff that had been left behind after the split. She understood that I had been reunited with something that had been missed, and told me that I could have it. Thousands of feet of pasta have been rolled and cut on that machine, including the sheets of dough used to make the tortellini in this dish.</p>
<p>Homemade tortellini go a long way. A nice presentation of only a few of the fresher, larger, and heartier, wrapped pasta will pack the same punch as a whole bowl of the frozen or bagged counterpart. The back of the tongue is satisfied with the nutty smoothness of the brown butter, and chives and goat cheese give this dish a more complicated and sharp taste up front than the standard tortellini made with ricotta cheese.</p>
<p>What You Need:</p>
<p>Pasta Dough:</p>
<ul>
<li>3/4c. All-purpose flour, sifted</li>
<li>1 Large egg</li>
<li>1/4t. Salt</li>
<li>1/2t. Olive oil</li>
<li>1/4t. Luke warm water</li>
</ul>
<p>Filling:</p>
<ul>
<li>1.5-oz Fresh goat cheese</li>
<li>1 Egg yolk</li>
<li>1T. Chives, chopped finely (reserve a pinch for garnish)</li>
<li>1t. Panko bread crumbs</li>
<li>1t. All-purpose flour</li>
<li>Salt</li>
<li>Pepper</li>
<li>5 Slices of pancetta, sliced into thin ribbons</li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li>1 Handful of fresh spinach per dish</li>
<li>Chicken stock</li>
<li>Water</li>
<li>Olive oil</li>
<li>Salt</li>
<li>2T. Unsalted butter, browned</li>
<li>Parmesan cheese, grated coarsely</li>
</ul>
<div><span style="font-family: Helvetica, 'Times New Roman', 'Bitstream Charter', Times, fantasy; font-size: small;">The Process:</span></div>
<div><span style="font-family: Helvetica, 'Times New Roman', 'Bitstream Charter', Times, fantasy; font-size: small;"><em>made a fresh pasta dough by mixing together 3/4c. all-purpose flour with 1 large egg, 1/4t. salt, 1/2t. olive oil, and 1/4t. luke warm water. placed the mixed and kneaded dough in the refrigerator to chill.</p>
<p>mixed together 1.5-oz of fresh goat cheese, one egg yolk, 1T. fresh chopped chives, 1t. panko bread crumbs, 1t. all-purpose flour, salt, pepper, and five thin slices of pancetta cut into narrow ribbons.</p>
<p>rolled out the chilled dough and cut it into 4&#215;4-in squares. lightly coated each square with a little egg white, folded into a triangle around a ball of the goat cheese mixture, and completed the tortellini shapes.</p>
<p>blanched a handful of fresh spinach leaves in a 50/50 mixture of chicken stock and water with a splash of olive oil and a pinch of salt. removed the spinach with a slotted spoon after 30-seconds in the blanching liquid. tossed the blanched spinach in a pinch of salt and pepper and a dash of seasoned rice wine vinegar. cooked the tortellini using the same blanching liquid as the spinach and then pulled and tossed the cooked pasta in 2T. of brown butter. plated the tortellini over the blanched spinach in a warm large rimmed bowl, topped with a splash of the brown butter, salt, pepper, fresh chives, and coarse grated parmesan cheese.</em></span></div>
<hr />
<p><small>&copy; 2010 <a href="http://selectism.com/columns/aaronpanone">Selectism</a> for Titel Media. Author: aaronpanone |
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		<title>Bio of a Butcher: Vadim Akimenko (of the future Akimenko Meats)</title>
		<link>http://selectism.com/columns/aaronpanone/2010/06/09/bio-of-a-butcher-vadim-akimenko-of-the-future-akimenko-meats/</link>
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		<pubDate>Thu, 10 Jun 2010 01:34:52 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>aaronpanone</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Bio]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Culinary]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Akimenko Meats]]></category>
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		<description><![CDATA[Vadim Akimenko loves meat more than anyone that I know. It might be less  of a love and more of an appreciation, but in the hundreds of meals  that I have shared with Vadim, not one has lacked a healthy portion of  animal protein. Sometimes I think that it is surprising that [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><img class="alignnone" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4070/4465112008_c86dc1d452_o.jpg" alt="" width="540" />Vadim Akimenko loves meat more than anyone that I know. It might be less  of a love and more of an appreciation, but in the hundreds of meals  that I have shared with Vadim, not one has lacked a healthy portion of  animal protein. Sometimes I think that it is surprising that he hasn&#8217;t  eaten his dog (no, not really&#8230;it&#8217;s a joke). Vadim Akimenko was born in  1981 in Orlando, Florida. At the age of seventeen, Vadim landed his  first job working as a line cook in a commercial kitchen, after years of  experience in the household kitchen with his mother. Studying under  Kevin Fonzo at Cafe K in Orlando, Vadim had his first look at the inner  workings of the food industry as he chopped onions and made stocks for  the restaurant. It was at Cafe K that Vadim first witnessed rudimentary meat cutting, and developed a fondness for the art  of butchering. After he graduated high school, Vadim moved to Hyde Park,  New York to attend the Culinary Institute of America.</p>
<p><img class="alignnone" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4018/4686957568_02dbd3a956_b.jpg" alt="" width="540" /><br />
At the  CIA, Vadim learned how to properly break meat, and the principals of  nose to tail cooking (meaning that no parts of the animal are wasted).  He received a wide array of technical training in butchering, preparing  charcuteries, and french culinary techniques. He had a natural talent in  taking apart animals, but his stay at the CIA was short lived, as he  quickly realized that he was not cut out for the life of a line cook. He  moved to Boston, Massachusetts with the intent of bringing his love for  authentic southern barbecued foods to New England, and opening a  locally-minded barbecue restaurant. He worked in a handful of kitchens  in the Boston area including Eat in Union Square, Somerville,  and  Seasons in the Regal Bostonian Hotel, before taking a life-changing  position in the meat department at Market Basket (a relatively small chain of sixty-two grocery stores in  Massachusetts and New Hampshire). Market Basket is a pretty normal grocery store, catering  to the typical American diet of meat with a side of meat, which meant  lots of practice for Vadim. He quickly moved up the ranks from an  apprentice meat-cutter, who only packed meat, to a  roaming butcher who ran the meat saw (woodworkers read: bandsaw) and went from store to store to help with cutting meat during high-volume periods. He was taken under  the wing of a seasoned veteran named John Buckley from the meat department at the Burlington  branch of Market Basket, who taught him many of the traditional  butchering techniques that he uses today, and helped him to continue to  advance the development of his art.</p>
<p><img class="alignnone" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2614/4185494052_2338f3c84c_o.jpg" alt="" width="540" /></p>
<p>After working for two years  at Market Basket, Vadim was offered a job at Savenor&#8217;s Market in the Beacon Hill area of Boston, Massachusetts. Vadim started again by simply cutting meat at  the gourmet butcher shop and high-end grocery store, and eventually  moved his way up to the position of meat manager at the Cambridge, Massachusetts store location. Vadim assisted Savenor&#8217;s in attempting to make the  switch over to more locally raised and sustainable meat supply sources,  and implemented a housemade charcuterie program, while taking on the responsibility of managing the meat department at both the Cambridge and Beacon Hill store locations. After five years at  Savenor&#8217;s Market, Vadim left to continue to pursue his desire to open  the barbecue joint of his dreams, only to realize that the greater  Boston area was lacking something more fundamental. The change in  direction came from the idea that barbeque is a luxury, but the  availability of locally-raised and humanely slaughtered meats is  something that everyone should be able to afford. Vadim knew that he  could make the biggest difference by taking his knowledge and  specialized skills and applying them to an extremely traditional model  that is practically extinct in metropolitan areas.</p>
<p><object classid="clsid:d27cdb6e-ae6d-11cf-96b8-444553540000" width="540" height="304" codebase="http://download.macromedia.com/pub/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab#version=6,0,40,0"><param name="allowfullscreen" value="true" /><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always" /><param name="src" value="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=8165543&amp;server=vimeo.com&amp;show_title=0&amp;show_byline=0&amp;show_portrait=0&amp;color=cccccc&amp;fullscreen=1" /><embed type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="540" height="304" src="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=8165543&amp;server=vimeo.com&amp;show_title=0&amp;show_byline=0&amp;show_portrait=0&amp;color=cccccc&amp;fullscreen=1" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true"></embed></object></p>
<p><a href="http://vimeo.com/8165543">The Pig &amp; The Butcher</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/paperfortress">Paper Fortress</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>
<p><a href="http://akimenkomeats.com">Akimenko  Meats</a> is slated to open in the Cambridge/Somerville area of  Massachusetts in the Fall of 2010. If you are interested in getting  involved there are a variety of ways to help Akimenko Meats raise funds  through their website or <a href="http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/vakimenko/akimenko-meats-bringing-locally-and-sustainably-r">Kickstarter</a> page (note: as I publish this article there are only five days left  on the Kickstarter pledge drive).</p>
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<p><small>&copy; 2010 <a href="http://selectism.com/columns/aaronpanone">Selectism</a> for Titel Media. Author: aaronpanone |
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		<title>A Simple Cherry and Carrot Juice</title>
		<link>http://selectism.com/columns/aaronpanone/2010/06/07/a-simple-cherry-and-carrot-juice/</link>
		<comments>http://selectism.com/columns/aaronpanone/2010/06/07/a-simple-cherry-and-carrot-juice/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 08 Jun 2010 03:18:51 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>aaronpanone</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Culinary]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[beverages]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[http://lickmybalsamic.com]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[
Juice. It doesn&#8217;t sound very special. Well, it is. Mass-produced &#8220;juice,&#8221; for the most part, is just a variant of soda pop. How many flavors and how much sugar can we fit in this container? How do we keep it in solution and looking good throughout its shelf life? Juice is juice. That&#8217;s it. You [...]]]></description>
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<p>Juice. It doesn&#8217;t sound very special. Well, it is. Mass-produced &#8220;juice,&#8221; for the most part, is just a variant of soda pop. How many flavors and how much sugar can we fit in this container? How do we keep it in solution and looking good throughout its shelf life? Juice is juice. That&#8217;s it. You extract the juice from a fruit or vegetable, and then you use it, or consume it. In the summer months especially, a simple hand-powered juicer (they come in many styles and sizes) is an invaluable tool to have on-hand in the kitchen.</p>
<p>What You Need:</p>
<ul>
<li>1.5-lbs of fresh cherries, pitted and stemmed</li>
<li>3 small carrots, peeled and sliced into small chunks</li>
</ul>
<p>The Process:</p>
<p><em>pitted and removed the stems from 1.5-lbs of fresh cherries. ran the cherries through a hand-crank masticating juicer with a few small peeled and diced raw carrots. used a coarse mesh strainer to remove some of the larger pulp and served in a chilled glass with some ice.</em></p>
<p>Leave a comment and let us know your favorite ingredients for fresh juice.</p>
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<p><small>&copy; 2010 <a href="http://selectism.com/columns/aaronpanone">Selectism</a> for Titel Media. Author: aaronpanone |
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